One place that Julia and I visited almost everyday while in Split was the 'green market' just outside the palace walls, called the Stari Pazar. The market is open everyday from 6 AM to late in the evening. We purchased quite a few things from the market, including pomegranates, mandarins, grapes, vegetables, home-made cheese and sausage, walnuts, pastries and honey. It was interesting to see ladies selling home-made olive oil and wine in plastic Coke bottles. We didn't know this at the time, but there were women who would walk among the crowds and call out 'cigareta'. Found out later that they were selling smuggled cigarettes. Everything was delicious and it was the perfect time of the season for juicy mandarins and pomegranates, which we ate quite a bit of. The produce was relatively cheap; mandarins were about 4 kuna per kilogram (about $0.35 a pound). Everything was either home-made or locally grown.
This will interest our Slavic readers-- there were old ladies selling something out of huge blue plastic barrels. We couldn't tell what it was, but could definitely smell it from a ways off. It had a very familiar smell, and it wasn't until we looked inside that we realized it was 'kisla kapusta' (similar to sauerkraut), just like the kind my grandma makes. We both enjoyed walking around the market with the locals, purchasing local organic produce, listening to the bustle of people and trying new things.